Trekking & Mountaineering

From my past interactions and observations with various people I understand that many people refer to trekking and mountaineering as synonyms. I feel sad when I see journalist/media acting in this manner as this would have wrong impacts.

I would like to explain the difference by considering a few parameters such as Altitude, Duration and style of the travel, Skill & Equipment required

Trekking is different from mountaineering in terms of risk taken by the participants.
In mountaineering one is entering into the zone of several objective dangers such as
Avalanche, Crevices, steep mountain slopes, harsh weather conditions;
Elements of nature at harsh levels for example - cold and altitude

Altitude: Below 5000m = Trekking; Above 5000m = Mountaineering
Usually trekking is undertaking below 5000m; beyond this altitude it's the mountaineering zone; There would be some skilled people who may not use any equipment
to overcome the obstacles such as steep slopes, snow and ice conditions but still this should be consider under mountaineering section for generalization

Altitude is important factor as this is direct understanding of Oxygen availability.
Poor understanding of this will put the people into the dangers of HAPE & HACE (High altitude Pulmonary and Cerebral Oedemas

Duration: Below 10 days: Trekking ; Above 10 days: Mountaineering
Usually treks are short duration and doesn't involve specific goal such as summit
Some difficult treks or back to back treks may take more than 10 days. In case of several back to back treks undertaken at once should be considered as Expedition(which can be synonymous with mountaineering)

Route: with out snow & Ice = Trekking; Snow & Ice = Mountaineering

If one has to encounter snow & ice conditions and requires the knowledge of snow and ice climbing skills then one must appropriately refer the activity.

Knowledge of Skill and Equipment:
Trekking = only trekking boots and walking sticks; generally carry less than 15kgs;
Mountaineering: Use of Crampons, Ice Axe, Anchor systems, climbing ropes etc

Elements of Nature:
Trekking: cold temperature = about 5 degree centigrades
Mountaineering: Sub Zero temps

Mountaineers enter into the zone inspite of harsh weather conditions

Goal:
Trekking = To enjoy the views and experiences
Mountaineering: Have an objective of achieving a goal:Peak, Exploration or long Endurance travels

I guess these inputs can give the basic idea to understand the difference between them and should be addressed accordingly.

Below is the beautiful portrait from Himalayas.


Indian One Rupee coins adorn the Hat of the lady. She is not aware of this.

Technology in Himalayas

House Construction at "Chumsur" village on way to Kimathangka near Nepal-Tibet border: Observe the Iron tools


There are no mills to make rice from the food grains. they have to depend on bamboo(wooden) tools and human strength.



Rice grains smashed with wooden sticks from the crop



Observe tools (bamboo tools)the millet grains separated from the crop.


Millet powder (raagi pindi for Andhrites) prepared from the stone tools. observe the Yak skin used to collect the powder.



(Picture was taken from "Sexila" Village on way to Tibet border). The village had its own aura.

Walung chung gola to Hans Pokhari

It took about 40 minutes to arrive at bridges below Walungchung gola where Kongma Khola merges with Tamur khosi. I walked past beautiful waterfall here. I have met a few porters coming from Lelep. The route went through dense forest. It took me another 20 minutes to arrive at a new suspension bridge built over Tamur Khosi. I went to the house from where I saw fumes going through chimney. I approached them so as to confirm about the route and the exact point where I will have to start climbing up from the main route towards Yak hut on the way to Hans Pokhari. They had a child who was mentally retarded. They offered me a cup of tea. I chatted with them about the region and gathered some more information about the landmarks and duration between them. The 4 houses of present here were addressed as “Jongin” village.

From here “Selep” a temporary camping ground is only a few minutes from where a narrow foot path goes up. It was a steep climb of about 2hrs to yak hut. From Selep, the route is through dense forest. I came across two abandoned huts on the way. I didn’t find anyone here. I wondered if this was the yah hut I was told about. It’s not possible to get water on the way. Only a small stream was present to quench thirst or fill the water bottle.

Only a couple of times were I able to see the sun’s rays penetrate through this dense jungle. I finally came out a ridge and saw a couple of yaks and a dog. There were two boys and a man standing outside the hut. I thought this must be the yah hut the villagers referring to. There was a family living in yak hut; one old lady, a young couple and two children who were helping the family were living there. There was surplus supply of milk and curd. I didn’t want to miss the opportunity of having milk for I don’t know when I would get some decent food. I wasn’t carrying any cooking paraphernalia to cook hot food. So I welcomed this inadvertent early lunch. I spent an hour chatting with them. I learnt that the person with whom I stayed in walungchung gola was his uncle. The couple had spent many years in sikkim and so were speaking fluent hindi.

It took another 40minutes to arrive at a point where the route was blocked with large tree branches. I thought it was a genuine sign indicating not to follow the route as it might have been swept away by some land slides which is a common phenomenon in Himalayas. But I couldn’t find any other way. Since the yak hut below was not too far I thought of going back to them rather than guessing the route. So I went back to them with my heavy sack and got clarified about it and climbed up again from the same route.
The branches were planted there by the villagers of Walunchung gola boycotting the villagers from Gyabla to follow this route and gain access to “Tipti la” to trade with Tibet. Sanctions are imposed in Himalayas as well!

The route took some traverse for about 45 minutes. After that it was very steep and never ending ascent along the ridge. It became tiring and strenuous as I gained altitude and slowly doubt crept in mind if I was on the right route. It was very dense forest of birch trees with out a proper foot path. I kept walking keeping the direction of the destination.
I was told that it would take about 2hrs to reach Hans pokhari from yak hut. It was more than three hours since I started from yak hut, with out any rest but there was no sight of a camping place or water point. As I approached almost the top of the ridge line I was following, I felt better as I could make out some features. I saw prayer flags tied at the pass like feature and felt relieved that it must lead to some village settlement if not the correct route. Near this I found another landmark that seemed like a temporary camping place for the people moving with their yaks.

I was very exhausted by now and was wishing for a water point to camp even if I don’t make it to Hans Pokhari. It was more than 4 hours since I began my journey from yak hut. It started snowing and the visibility was only a few meters. I walked for another 20 minutes and climbed a rocky ridge like feature. I was elated to see the large water body in the middle of the amphitheatre of mountain walls. There were flags tied at one end of the lake.
It was snowing heavily now. I quickly got into the buisiness of pitching my tent as close to the lake as possible. I dumped my pack in side and went up to fetch water. It was almost frozen on the surface, I broke the ice and collected water and found my way back to the tent.



I was feeling very cold. I tried to warm up my hands and feet. I changed my clothes and slipped into sleeping. I rubbed my fingers and feet rapidly to gain some heat. It comes painfully slowly. It required some good amount of determination to indulge in this survival action. It took more than 30minutes to regain comfortable warmth in the body.
I moved on to my next worry – Hunger. I drank the cold water that I collected from the lake; it was delicious considering my situation. I had some biscuits, chocolates, dry fruits and nuts for the dinner. After that, I forced myself to go out and fill the bottle with water for the night. I carefully placed this water bottle next to my body inside the sleeping bag.

I am the only one sleeping at Hans pokhari for that night. I sneaked through the tent for any views, it was still snowing incessantly. I thought about the stories of demons.? I could resist a smile come out.. I told myself that I have several tangible and immediate worries such as what if snow fall increases and turns into a storm. Where do I have to shift if the winds get harsh etc.

Holidaying at Walung chung gola:

We went to bed after the meal with the plans that Tsering would return to Thudam next day early morning. When Tsering explained my exigency to his uncle and asked him to arrange somebody to accompany me up to Ghunsa, he became very anxious and told that he will go out and look for people immediately; it was almost 11pm which meant he will go out in the night and start asking people to go with me next day. I felt awkward and told him that we can do that business next day. I have heard and read a lot about this village and so did not want to possess only a fleeting experience. So I thought of spending a day here which would also help me to recuperate from the exhaustive trek I undertook previous day.

Walung chung gola is a prominent village very close to the border of Tibet. It is a one of the prominent villages en route to “Tipti La” through which the natives exchange trade with Chinese. Nobody in this region refer to other side of the boundary as Tibet but China. One can find goods from biscuit, cigarette to liquor and electronic goods. Though this place is not known among ordinary trekkers, this is one of the favorite and holds a special place among adventurous and experienced people.
Even the people living at the base of Khagnchendzonga around Gunsa cross over milkedanda mountain range and travel towards Tibet via Walungchunga gola. Tamur Khosi which is one of the important tributaries of “Sapta Khosi” the biggest river of Nepal enters from Tibet into Nepal beyond Walungchung gola. Later “yangma khola” running parallel on the other side of mountain ridge line joins with Tamur Khosi about 3km below Walungchung gola.

Next day I woke up leisurely and found that Tsering was also not in hurry to leave for Thudam. After breakfast I went out to check around the village to hire a guide to Ghunsa.
The whole village was busy with the offing annual festival which is only two days away. Our host and all his family members were busy with the construction of a new house. He said that I will have to wait until the evening to know even if somebody is interested to go with me.

Usually people exchange their services in such works as constructing a house or working in the fields and don’t earn wages. The houses constructed in far away places will be very difficult to construct and must be done the family alone.
Not everybody was engaged in such constructive deeds there were merry loving people as well who squat in the centre of the village in circle to bet their luck in playing cards and a peculiar gambling game with dies. It was a very good time pass and costly affair with the bets.


There was another house close by the village square where two ladies were busy with weaving clothes/ woollen wear. I inquired about a place to make a telephone if there was any. I found the house but not the owner. After some walking around I found him very passionately playing the “Dies game”. He could not excuse himself from the game so ordered his wife to take care of the business. I walked along with her to the shop and bought a few eatables for the trek in case I had to walk alone towards Gunsa. Telephone wasn’t functioning.

I tried talking with the people who were sitting around and playing cards thinking that some people may want to accompany me to Gunsa. I took a walk to the police “chowki” to and chatted with Police inspector and others. Most of the police men were from the border towns near India. They lead a tough life staying away from their families with out many facilities. I met the police at all of these remote places and found them to be very friendly though acted tough initially. After learning about my travel to Gunsa the police tried to help by initiating talks with the natives. As we went around I learnt that they wanted to capitalize on my situation of being alone and were demanding 10 times what they usually work for.

I frisked the place to charge my camera batteries with out any success. I inquired about the status of power supply. I was told that electricity was available in the past but because of the landslide the poles were swept off. There was no transportation facility to bring the heavy equipment up this difficult trail from plains either by people or yaks.

At about 11:30am I returned to the house I was staying in, the girl was suffering from cold and fever. I parted with my last remains of the medicines. She made some tea for me. Tsering, myself and the girl sat there discussing about the route. Tsering has not travelled beyond this place and he was honest not give his opinion beyond this place or willing to guide. She explained part of the route and enquired my stamina and sense of trekking in this part of the country in “bhotia” with Tsering. I can go via “Hans Pokhari” route to gunsa instead of difficult “Nango La”. I didn’t about this route and it wasn’t marked on the map as well. So I enquired more on this.

There are three routes to Ghunsa from Walungchung gola. One is via a high pass Nango la which requires one to descend from Walungchung gola and climb up towards “Yangma” and turn eastwards. It is as tough as walking from Thudam to walungchung gola and may be achieved in a single day by a strong and determined party. This is the toughest route and requires a guide.

The other route is what most of the villagers take to travel to gunsa near the base of Kanchenjunga. The route passes from a remote lake called “Hans Pokhari”and arrives at “Gyabla” on the popular trekking route to Kanchenjunga base camp. From Gyabla it's about 3 - 4hrs easy walt to Gunsa. This route also requires a guide.

The third alternative is to descend along course of Tamur khosi and follow the conventional route taken by the villagers and policemen to visit Taplejung upto “Lelep” the meeting point of Gunsa Khola and Tamur Khosi. From Lelep one has to climb up following the course of Gunsa Khola towards Gunsa. This would take about 5 days journey.



I kept my options open though preferred to trek along “Nango La” route if I get a guide. The girl suggested that I can go alone via Hans Pokhari route to Gyabla and from Gyabla one will not miss the route. She urged me to leave soon so that I can reach “Yak Hut” below Hans Pokhari and travel next day to Gyabla.
I waited for her father to find a guide. I went around the village. There is monastery and school above the village in towards northen direction. I found some lamas and young people getting ready for the festival celebrations to be done in another two days.

As the day progressed my chances of getting a guide at decent price seemed remote. So I started mentally preparing to leave alone. By night it was clear that I will be travelling alone next day so, I prepared a rough sketch map with the update from villagers and the map that I had. Tsering and I had dinner in his son’s house and returned to sleep soon.

Next day we woke up early and started our preparations. Tsering and his uncle urged me not to leave alone when I expressed my interest to leave with out a guide. I was firm to go alone and told them to prepare early meal for me along with tsering.
We (Tsering & I) had our meal and prepared to leave in two different directions; Tsering towards west and I to the east. I assured them that if I failed to find the way or face any difficulty I will retun to the village or go along the tourist route to Lelep. They narrated a few stories of past and gave lot of advices. I heard them all ith patience and bade adieu. My rucksack over my back became my company and I picked up the habit of talking to it when walking along the wild country alone. I talk to my rucksack about the gushing rivers, beautiful waterfalls and dense woods.

I had very little battery left in the camera so I wasn't taking any photos of the route. I wanted to preserve them for Hans Pokhari views. Some photos are very important to prove to some important people. So I was careful about that though I take most of the pictures for my pleasure

~

Walung chung gola journey continued

We have come to a place where there was an open ground. There were two routes in different directions from here. One route went straight down and the other was by left hand side into the woods..
We first proceeded along the straight down route .. We walked for a few minutes and suddenly tsering felt it wasn't the correct route.. So we turned back and joined the route where we came from and followed along the left hand side route. Trail and error became our route finding method.. We have been walking for 10 hours in the rough terrain and now even the darkness fell on us. I felt some relief when we arrived a log bridge and we found better broader foot path on the left bank of the river. I felt comfortable with the identification of bridge as this land mark was recognizable in the map. I guess the foot path we joined must be leading to "Tipti La - Trade route to Tibet" towards north. I was not in mood to appreciate that. I was on look out for a safe place to rest for the night. My guide's memory also got refreshed and he was able to recollect where "WalungChung gola" is and expressed confident that we are on correct path.
I asked him how can he say and how far is it ? His answer: Can you see to ridges meeting to a point in distance from two directions.. Yaah, it's located at the foot of the left ridge.. Wow!!.. what a description I thought.. It gave me an impression that we still had two good triesome hours to go. He still persisted that I should not use my head torch. the path at some places was dragged off by the landslides.. there were several streams joining into the river at several points.. We had to be very careful with these as well. Fearing that I might slip into the river at one of these landslides I had switched my torch ignoring his superstition that we will not be able to reach the village.

I was under extreme thirst and used every opportunity to stop and quench my thirst at all the streams that came our way. He was aptly using these breaks to take a sip of "Chinese alcohol". He kept offering me, thinking that I might get inspired by the cold to take a gulp. I did take one sip on the top of the pass.. It's toxic taste was vivid in my throat. I felt water from the streams was very refreshing to drink and wash my face.

As I read in the books and consulted with the locals, I learnt that walungchung gola is a big village and power supply was there. But We couldn't see any lights in the distance. This kept bothering me.. but he kept assuring that we are on right path.. I wondered if the complete village has got shifted to some other place.

At that moment we suddenly hit at a place where there was a long bamboo pole erected.. soon we arrived at a village entrance land mark. We sat down at the wooden bench constructed.. It was relief and happy to see the village. Atlast we have a place to rest for the night. Soon other concerns creaped into our hearts. there are police..what would they think of us.. and how to answer their questions..

As we walked into the village.. The dogs started barking with out stop.. and a window opened inquiring for the intruders in the night. We were escorted into the police chowki. Soon, All that is inside our rucksacks was dumped on the ground and we were frisked until it gave them satisfaction that we weren't any threat to that treasure house. I was asked to prove my identity.. Who is this black man wandering in these remote places of Nepal. I showed my Passport, maps, and a bit of Everest story put them at ease and soon enjoyed their hospitality with a hot " Nepalese chai".

Tsering gave his uncle's name. The police helped to search his house in the night. He locked it tight from inside. His young daughter was sleeping alone there; she was affected with cold and fever. Finally we could locate his uncle and made the house doors open and we walked in. It was 9PM by then. we were too exhausted to care for food but he insisted that we had.. and his daughter lit the "Chuli"/stove (kind of) at that hour.

The owner asked me, what would i prefer as sabji/"curry?".. I said anything is a treat!.. I knew even a single chilly/"mirch" and an onion is a treasure in these places but such is the hospitality of these people. I had wonderful dinner along with a cup of milk and curd..

I felt humbled.
Every time I am sit for meal at home now, their faces appear in front of my face.

~

Reflections about/in the Himalayas

The more I think of Himalayas, the more I feel the urge to go back to them.. Even as I sleep in my home by the side of a sea in south India, thousands of kilometers away from Himalayas I experience the call of the Himalayas..

The memories of the villages and the people up there that I have seen during my last expedition keep coming into my mind.. I am feeling some kind of irresistible urge to go back to those villages and do some thing towards their medical needs, educational needs and to campaign for the conservation of Himalayas.

I have some questions about the "Formal Education: toil?" that everyone of us underwent... For most of us I guess it was a medium to earn livlihood than equipping ourselves with the wisdom to understand the purpose of our life/existence.

Why should a himlayan village boy in Thudam read A B C D and speak fluent English/main stream language? Why should he learn the calculus... What is the future of this boy?

What good is it going to do them to join the main stream civilization getting in sync with the modern world..

I keep reflecting about these questions in sleep and when awake. Can I make difference to the Himalayas and the people living there.

~

Walung chung gola journey continued

We have crossed two passes by the side of Lumba Samba Peak to arrive on the Walug Chung gola side.
It took us nearly 6 hrs to arrive at the second pass. I looked towards north west direction into the snow fields reflecting if there can be any route from there into Tibet. There is a large azure lake in front of us and the 180 degree view of Kangchenjunga range adorned the sky line. Only Kangchenjunga summit was covered in clouds and the summit of Kumbhakarna (Jannu) played hide & seek in the clouds… most the other peaks were visible. Kumbhakarna is a very beautiful peak as beautiful as Ama dablam near Everest and taller than that. To its south stood Mt. Rathong and Kakthok in between them lies Rathong la., a high pass into sikkim. Further south of them is Kangla a trade route between West Sikkim and Nepal. It is still used by several villagers on both sides. The entire ridge lines runs from the flanks of all the way until it rolls down to the hills of Darjeeling. This is the famous Singalila Ridge.

To the North of Kangchenjunga were Nepal peak, Twins, Wedge peak and jansong peak extending towards Tibet. Jansong la used to be a famous trade route to Tibet from Nepal where the people used to cross “Chorten Nymala” and go to Tibet from north Sikkim. Douglas Fresh Field was one of the legends who tread in this region and mapped the glaciers of Kanchenjunga in 1898.

I was fervently taking pictures of the peaks that had been envisioning in my mind from the time I read Norman Hardie and Douglas Freshfield’s books. I suddenly realized that I had a companion as well and looked at him. None of this mattered to him. He was sipping Chinese whisky sitting on a rock that offered best seat for him. As I approached after finishing of my photo session, he handed me the Chinese Whisky in true companion spirit. As I tried to take a drop pass thorugh my throat.. It came gushing out of me. It was very toxic for me and he was having it clean/neat.
I preferred the milder “Chang – Rice beer” and felt better. The rotis that we brought were as hard as leather. I tried to eat but it got stuck in my throat. I had to drink more water which was sparse at that place.
After resting for nearly 45 mts. We rushed down the steep slopes in to the valley. As we descended to the glacier moraine we found a few ridges of boulders. We have crossed a several of them and finally hit the meadow/grass pastures. We saw some yaks grazing and a n abandoned hut. I thought it must have been high camp and it would take another two hours to reach the village. When I asked him how long will it take. His answer was – “yes, some thing around that”. We have passed through as lake and stream flowing down and I found him criss crossing at several locations. By 5PM we were in the rhododendron bushes. And found a foot path leading as downhill. It took us another hour and half to arrive at the place where we found large trees.
By then it became dark and we have entered a place where he was confused. I aske him if we have to pitch the tent. He said the Walung chung gola must be close by. And after wandering for another 15 minutes in that darkness is when he revealed me that he walke this route some 16 years back when he was 7 yrs old accompanying his brother going to Sikkim. His memory was superb as he could remember that route that far. We could hear the roar of the river close by. But we couldn’t find a way.. There were two routes in different directions.

photos from Kimathangka

Thudam to Walungchung Gola over Thudam Pass

The climb from Thudam to Lumab Samba Peak is a gradual ascent. We have come to the poitn which leads towards Umabk La in about an hour. From there the stream coming from Umbak La was in the westen direction. We continued along the strem coming from Lumba Samba peak. The snow peaks towards thudam were visible in the horizon. The snow peak looked like sharp pyramid rising into the sky. As we climed the ridge line going towards Lumba Smaba peak another valley revealed in fornt of us. It was one of those spurious bumps common in Himalayas.




It took us nearly two hours to reach the base of Lumba Samba peak where we took a traverse towards north west direction from the Lumba Samba peak.



From here we followed a series of teasing spurious bumps and soon we were climbing in snow and the views have opened up in all direction. I took the picture of Tsering my guide in the back ground of Lumba Smaba peak.

The view towards south west in the direction of Everest was dominated by Makalu massif. I was as excited as a child looking at such panorama and taking pictures earnestly.

Tsering in the back drop of Lumba Samba Himal


View of Everest himalaya dominated by Makalu & Chomolonzo peaks towards Thudam



As we climbed to the pass what I saw was breath taking... To my East was the panoramic view of the himalaya of Khangchendzonga Range and to the west was the view of Everest region peaks... I think it's the only place one can enjoy such spectrum of peaks on either side of the pass... It will be impossible for me to put in words the feeling I experienced there. I felt a child filled with happiness.

I asked tsering the name of the Himalaya to the east.. He said - "Walung Chung himal". It didn't bother to him that it was Khanchendzonga range he was looking at didnot matter him much. He was indifferent to this except that he saw the "himalayan/Himal" raneg on both sides.

I think, having the knowledge of looking at great peaks on Earth is a different feeling.

View towards East:


View towards West in the direction of Everest Range



*****

Thudam to Walungchung Gola over Thudam Pass

Leaving For Thudam Pass:



Sonam’s friend Chering/Tsering (?) had agreed to take me to Walungchung gola over the high pass which I prefer to call as “Thudam Pass 5250m”. There is another low altitude pass which tourists(what ever less no. of people) take to arrive at Topke Gola. Not even the villagers in Chemthang are aware of this Thudam pass. The villagers of Thudam had crossed this in past to migrate sikkim and border regions. Travels over this pass are rarely undertaken. Thudam people go towards Umbak La for trade/commerce (Technological goods: TV, DVD, Generator, Solar Panels; cosmetics etc; Rice, Salt and Salt like commodities) reasons to Tibet. They go to Chemthang for goods like Millet and rice grown in fields for preparation of beer. They sell medicinal plants and bamboo bars in exchange for their purchase.

So, their dependency for Walungchung gola is less for trade but some of them have family links (marriage) or extended families migrated there. Walungchung gola is connected to “Tipti La” as Thudam is connected to Umbak La. And similarly Walungchung gola people are dependent on crops of low valleys for their “Millet beer” etc for which they go to Lelep.

For these reasons there is less crossing of this pass from either sides. I haven’t seen any other party crossing this pass during my journey as well. Not many Tourists are aware of this and most of travel agencies of Nepal take them over Topke gola route. None of the Indians were in this region (to the east of Makalu base camp route) at all.

As far as I know it was crossed by Mr. Norman Hardie in 1955 late August after his summit of Kanchenjunga (he is one of the First summiteers of Kanchenjunga). I read about his account in his book – “On My own two feet”. My travels were motivated by his exploratory adventures in fifties. He undertook trek from Kanchenjunga to Lukla (Everest base camp region) after summiting Kanchenjunga meet rejoin with his wife going fof Everest base camp. Awesome feet and spirit! As far as my interest goes it’s the simple irresistible call the Himalayas and to walk in the foot prints of the legends.

Tsering and his wife woke up at 4:00AM to start making preparation for my travel. We had to eat heavy early meal so as reduce the ration carriage over the trek and as well keep provision for packed lunch that consisted of some “Rotis” and Curd rice. They let me enjoy the luxury of my sleeping bag. They made space for me to sleep in their house, while they squeezed to one corner. We had to do this so as to avoid the packing of tent in early morning and as well the burden of carrying it in wet conditions.

Half way through their preparations, the kids also awoke with the sounds of the utensils and warmth of the fire. They too have joined with their parents only to be chided away by irate Tsering ocassionally for disturbing him. Food was ready by 6:00AM. We quickly ate the delicious “pyar bhari ” meal and packed the stuff and were ready to leave by 7:00AM. Tsering wife paid a poignant adieu to her husband. She was carrying their baby which is why it was tough for her to part with him. Tsering though agreed to guide me, had only traveled once over this pass when he was just 7yrs of age. He accompanied his “Lama” brother who was migrating to Sikkim for better prospects then. His brother still lives in Gangtok Monastery and had not visited for many years.

By the time we started and walked out of the shrubs above Thudam village it was 7:15AM. We could see the snow peaks towering above the landscape in distant which kept more revealing as we gained altitude and distance. My thoughts were filled with what it would have been 1955 when Norman Haride was crossing it in August month in opposite direction in Nov month.

~ Physical map of the trek I undertook in this region

Holidaying in thudam:

\

Thudam Map Photo credit: Internet


I spent a day in Thudam which I dedicated for some hygiene after several days of travel unaware of next such opportunity. It was a bright sunny day so I washed my clothes and later myself.

My SLR camera already indicated no battery. I was taking photos at lighting speed and with good caution. My Electrical Engineering fundas became more clear as the locals said that I can’t charge my camera batteries with the Solar panels with out Inverter. And the owner of the house that had only Generator which was meant for playing DVDs of Bollywood films went to Chemthang for “Millet” which they would use to prepare “Chang: local beer”.

The children and Adults looked very untidy and beautiful. Though there was no scarcity of firewood as they had not serious reservations about the conservation of Environment, global warming was far too away near – Kyoto protocol. They were spared of all this and having a great time with what ever nature gave them. They were more concerned in survival and basic needs.

Meanwhile my guide who agreed to show me the route to Walung chung gola through a high pass adjacent to Lumba samba peak had serious plans of changing his mind. Sonam arranged his friend to take me over the pass leading to walungchung gola. His friend though agreed initially on the prospect of decent wages, later had some constraints as his wife was not too keen on sending him over the high pass as the winter is approaching and there can be snowfall any time on high passes. I told him that we don’t have to spend more days. We cross the pass and reach walungchung gola on same day and he can return next day. After lot of coaxing and giving some medicines to his wife and children, his wife agreed send him.

I was dreaming of visiting Umbak la another pass on the Nepal – Tibet border about half day walk from thudam. But upon seeing the reaction his wife, I restrained myself.

I sauntered around the village and played with the children for some time. I was the object of play for the children. My tent attracted them so much. They were always around that which worried me if they take any thing which is very essential for me. So I put forwards my concern to their parents to which they obliged.

Later Sonam’s friends’ neighbour approached me asking for any medicine for tooth ache. When I enquired further his wife has been suffering from tooth problem (which they attributed to some demon) for sometime and her gums were swollen. She was in very dire state. She was affected with fever was well. I gave the medicines – cambiflam and another antibiotic I was carrying. My supplies were also almost getting emptied as I kept parting with these medicines along most of the villages. Though I need them very much for my future travels, the thought that no help can reach these places bothered me and I couldn’t resist to part with them.

After this I found a few more approaching me. I felt sad that I couldn’t do much for them. Later another man came who was hurt by an irate Yak came. It attacked him with the horns. His hand fingers were split (between middle finger & wrist). I gave him soframycin and bandage. Told him keep the wound dry as much as possible ad keep massaging so that the fingers wouldn’t be in bent shape or loose the structure.

Not many of them speak Nepalese. They don’t speak Sherpa language either. Several settlements have their own languages. Some of them travel to lower valleys for trading. These people learn some of the Nepalese vocabulary. I had my own version of – Nepal in 21days (Similar to that of Java in 21days).

I saw a old lady weaving the wool preparing some winter wear. I kept amusing at the life style of the people and the future of the kids. They posed paradox for me. Should they be brought in sync with the world I came from /belong to which is proclaims to be highly advanced and constantly in search of happiness. They were happy there!

Thudam Village in Eastern Nepal

Thudam Village:
It's the last village on Eastern Nepal side bordering with Tibet/China. Umbak la is about 4hrs distance for the villagers from where they get their basic commodities such as salt, rice, suger, chilly powder etc. Thudam people sell "Medicinal plants" and Bamboo stick which chinese use for their construction.
There is a generator for power supply apart from Solar panels. Using generator, they will play DVDs as subsitute for Movie entertainment.

There is school as well, but no teachers. Even the nepalese don't dare to come here. the cultures are very different. Even the language.. Mad guys like me travel to such remote and extreme places..well that was the opinion of most of the people as I kept inquiring about the region and anybody willing to accompany me as guide.

The kids in the photo were SONAM's children. He has three and another is in Queue. They get married(?) by about 14yrs age. whatever, he had cute children.. They were busy most of the time playing with my binocs looking at distant peaks and ridge lines.
He had lot of yaks.. So there was no shortage of Yak milk, Churbi(Hardened Yak cheese) and Curd. He preserved a few chillies for me to do chatni to eat with rice and curd. Later he pleaded for my "red wollen Jacket" as his wife became very much fond of it.. I couldn't put down the plea of those who fed me at such remote place.

Later, I enjoyed thier luxurous hospitality in the hut which was ment for Yaks. They slept in another hut. I slept by the side of the fire which Sonam set with the fire wood he collected for preparing food during his emergencies.



The cute kid in the center of the photo is Sonam's yongest daugther. As I pitched my tent in Thudam.. It was an exhibition for the entire village and a play object for the kids.. Unable to bare the enthusiasm.. I shifted my tent in middle of the night to near by bushes that provded some cover.

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Photos: Exotic Himalayan flowers

My favorite list of Exotic Himalayan flowers

In 2007, I had the opportunity to trek in the valleys and cross high pass that existed around 4 dhams which are very famous among Indian pilgrims. The valleys I visited were Ruinsara valley, Dodi tal region, Sian gad valley, Gomukh region, Khiro and Panpatia valleys, Madhya Maheshwar region and Kedar valleys.
I was amazed at the variety and quantity of the flowers that I saw in these high places and lower valleys. I put down my favorite list of Himalayan flowers. I selected them on the basis of the a)structure of the flower and plant b) colors that these flowers possessed c) The altitude at which they were seen d) Size of the flower

Twelve Exotic flowers of Himalaya:

1. Morina longifolia
2. Lilium Oxypetallum
3. Aquilegia pubiflora
4. Corydalis
5. Thermopsis barbata
6. Iris
7. Dactylorhiza hatagirea
8. Berginea stracheyi
9. Meconopsys (Blue puppy)
10 Epilobium latifolium
11 Cypripedium
12 Saussurea Obvallata (Brahma Kamal)


watch out for the photos of these flowers,I shot.

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Introduction

Himalayas Introduction:
(One may refer Wikipedia for detailed info on Geography of Himalayas)

Himalayas are the youngest folded mountains in the world formed approximately 10, million years ago. Himalayas were the result of the transformation of the changes that the planet earth underwent during its evolution to the present state of 7 continental land masses. Tethys sea existed where Himalayas rose today, the fossils of sea life were found near Manas Sarovar Lake and several other locations across Himalaya supporting the theory.

Beautiful and mighty Himalayan ranges that captivates the human heart on some of the Himalayan treks:



Shiwaliks, Lower & Middle Himalaya, Greater Himalayas
Himalayas are broadly divided as Shiwaliks, Lower Himalaya, Middle Himalaya and the Greater Himalayan ranges. Shiwaliks are the foot hills of Himalaya which pave the entry into the lower and Middle Himalaya. Rishikesh, New Jalpaiguri/ Siliguri, hills of Darjeeling in West Bengal come under this category. Lower Himalayas are in the range fall at about 3000m altitude. Middle Himalayas are between 4000m and 6000m altitude, while the Greater Himalayas are above 6000m altitude.

Eastern, Central and Western Himalayas
On the basis of watersheds that originate from the Himalayas they can classified as Eastern, Central and Western Himalayas.
The Brahmaputra River originating from Manas Sarovar is the significant river playing a dominant role along its course until it flows into Bay of Bengal. It collects the waters of all the rivers originating from different Himalayan ranges and other sources and flows into Bay of Bengal. Eastern Himalayas lie between Sikkim in the west and Arunachal in the east.

Central Himalaya:
Mighty Ganges plays a significant role in this region.

Western Himalayas:
Indus River plays a significant role in this region,

I will try to post the interesting nuggets about Himalaya from my travels and experiences in this blog. This blog will not follow any order in terms of information posting. The content will be photos, anecdotes and write ups.