Thursday, July 30, 2009

Tanzania Safaris

It was pleasure to watch these animals in their habitats. Zebras were very beautiful; They were as though the best painter took lot of care to paint them with such similarity.
Zebras


The Giraffees stand infront of the vehicles as though seeking acquintace; You can get a good shot of them; Elephants were in thier own world of searching food and eaing;
Giraffees



And the "King" Lion behaved as though it was aware that - It is the King of the jungle. Rest of the animals moved away while taking picture; but one can notice the confidence this animal has. It is very relaxed and doesn't make any movements that display any signs of fear.

Lions


I got to see them at a distance of 50m and couldn't resist to get down from the vehicle to take a better shot; It was behind the grass glades; I peeped over the grass glades thinking it might just and pose for me (what a wish!); It started moving off, luckily in the other direction, away from me; I got a couple of pics them running. I returned to the vehicle as the Driver began to reprimand in the language that I didn't understand.



watching the animals in the game drive was so fun, you will behave as though you are a 10 yr old child. I enjoyed the joy and thrill of it.

Wild Hog


I got the rare shot of Hippoes (Lucky!) Usually they don't keep their head out of water; I got this shot as I was pasing by the hippo pool in the evening time.
Hippoes


~Beware of Global warming; Please do your bit to protect this planet!

Wednesday, July 29, 2009

High Passes of Khumbu - Rolwaling Region

Map of Khumbu-Rolwaling Region(courtesy: google)




The Solu-Khumbu is the district that houses Sagarmatha (Mt. Everest). the lower region is called Solu and the upper region from Lukla is referred as Khumbu region.
This region is of very histroical importance as most of the sherpas from this region took part in several Everest expeditions. Everest is located on the border of Tibet/China and Nepal. Until the International borders were defined the locals living there didn't care much about the nationality and lived on either side of these mountains/ranges; least bothered about to which country , which territory belonged. Mostly they owned most of these high lands and frequently crossed from one side to other.

The legendary Tenzing Norgey sherpa's story is also one such thing; He was born in Tibet and his family used to take yaks for grazing in the high lands on tibet side in shadow of the Everest region; Then they (family) migrated (fining good grazing ground s for Yaks) to Thame close to Namche Bazar in Khumbu region; they must have crossed into Nepal from Tibet through a pass called "Nangpa La 5806m". Then he travelled from Namche to Darjeeling for better employement opportunities such as offering him self as a daily labourer. The destiny had something special for this ambitious and strong climber. And his trumph on Everest along with Sir Edmund Hillary is a legend. After his ascent all Three nations - Tibet, Nepal and India vied to own his citizenship; Ultimately India respected/honored his achievement and opened a mountaineering Institute at Darjeeling (Himalayan Mountaineering Institute) and made him Director (Field Training). What Hillary got compared to Tanzing is phenominal.
Sherpa - a slight mdification from its original "Shar-pa" which means "people of East".

I am interested in crossing passes which are above 5000m in the region of Khumbu and its adjacent valleys such as "Makalu-Barun National Park" to its east and "Rolwaling" to its west.
Khumbu region connects to Rolwaling via the pass - "Tashilepcha la 5755m". This is considered technical and to be dealt with lot of care according to climbers; More experienced trekkers treat it as dangers and not many parties attempt this in a year (about 3 probably); Once this pass was more frequented by the sherpas of Khumbu to reach Kathmandu on foot. Until Lukla airstrip came up, people must have used it more frequently but with Lukla airstrip and business prosperity in Khumbu region beaucse of tourist influx, shepras began to opt for easier and faster "Airway".

The other pass on the same line towards north sharing border with Tibet/China is "Nangpa la 5806". This is the same pass that was in news a couple of years back when Chinese soldiers shot the nuns/refugees crossing over from Tibet and trying to reach India to seek solace of Dalai lama;

Cho la pass 5420m: Connects Everest Base camp region and Gokyo lakes both of which are most visited/famous/favorite destinations among tourists visting khumbu region. The pass is considered not very difficult; Adviced to bring rope under snow fall/conditions; Though it's considered not very difficult several trekkers have succumbed to altitude sickness/hypothermia/exhaustion while attempting this. In 2008 when I was in this region there was an Indian party from pune/Mumbai who lost one of their members;

Renjo la 5340m: It lies to the west of Gokyo lakes, Very beautiufl pass (interms of views from top) also not very much frequented.

Mingbo la 5815: This is very dangerous pass; There is a overhang just below the summit which makes it very challenging; People attempting it go with a prep as good as attempting a peak. The pass lies on the flanks of Amadablam; This connects Pangboche of Khumbu region with "Honku Valley" on the other side of ama dablam adjacent to Amphu lapcha pass (by the side of Island peak).

Mera la 5415m: This is another no very difficult pass which leads to Honku valley; Trek ususal starts from Lukla; Those climbers approaching "Barun peak" take this route. Those adventurous trekkers attempting Ice col and Sherpani col and attempt to reach Makalu base camp as well take this pass; The other option is from Amphu lapcha la though.

I would be attempting some of these passes as first leg/part, mostly Tashilepcha la and Nangpa la; then proceed for Langtang, Manaslu, Annapurna and Dhailagiri circuts. After finishing these I would fly back to Lukla and attempt Mera la, Mingbo la, Chola and Renjo la. I did Renjo la last year so considering available time, I would make the decision. I am still exploring several options of executing it; though I made a good research and planned most of it; The plan is still lucid as I am still looking for spons.

8000M PEAKS THAT ADORN KHUMBU HIMAL



Sagarmatha/ Chomolungma/ Everest



Lhotse 8516m (4th tallest peak)



Cho oyu 8201m (6th tallest peak)

~ Save Himalaya; Gloabl warming is REAL; do your bit to save the Earth; Don't pollute the place in any form;

Sunday, July 26, 2009

5000m Passes between Mt. Everest & Kailash

1. Tashi Lepchala 5755 - Connects Khumbu region with Rolwaling(west)
2. Nangpa La 5806 (A couple of years back Chinese soldiers shot refugees crossing to Nepal from Tibet)
3. Renjo la 5345: West of Gokyo Lakes
4. Chola 5420 - East of Gokyo lakes
5. Mingbo La 5815m - East of Pangboche below Amadablam (Connects to Honku valley) Dangerous
6. Ganja la 5130m - Langtang valley
7. Tilman’s pass 5320m - East of Langtang
8. Larkya La 5135m - Connects Manaslu with Annapurna
9. Thurong La 5415m - Annapurna Circuit
10. Masokanto La 5099m - Inner Annapurna (Tilichu)
11. Dampuss La 5250m - Dhaulagiri Circuit
12. French col 5360m - Dhaulagiri circuit
13. Tuje La 5124m - Upper Dolpo Gautham Himal
14. Mohla 5035m - Upper Dolpo - Gautam Himal
15. Yala Bhanjyang 5425m - Kanjiroba Himal
16. Ghora Bhanjyang 5182m - Kanjiroba Himal
17. Koji la 5495m - Kanthi Himal
18. Namja La 4986m - Kanthi Himal
19. Kangla 5358m - North west Nepal
20. Changla 5293m - North west Nepal (Tibet order)
21. Dolma La 5636m - Mt. Kailash Kora

********

Mt. Everest to Mt. Kailash High Route

The Map of Nepal National Parks:


(Picture taken from: Googling)

Doing a little bit research reading several books, maps and early expeditions I stitched a route that was not attempted earlier by anybody. The route goes as close to Tibet as possible on northern frontier of Nepal. The aim of the expedition is to cover as many high passes (above 5000m) as possible while connecting two important revered mountains of the world.

The stages of the journey:
Khumbu - Rolwaling - Langtang Himalaya

Stage2: Manaslu - Annapurna - Dhaulagiri grand cicruit (one trek encompassing all the base camps not summits of these peaks)

Stage3:
Mera la, Minbo la and Chola of Makalu-Khumbu region; I will attempt Mera peak 6450m.

Stage4: Shey gompa, Mustang, Upper Dolpo Region(Mugu)

stage 5: Mugu - Rara - Hilsa (border of Nepal-Tibet border close to Mt.Kailash)

Stage 6: Mt. Kailash Kora (inner & outer)

~ If anybody is interested for joining either EBC trek in the beginning of expedition or with Mt. Kailash(Dec end) in the end of the expedition may contact me (mastmalli@yahoo.com);

Saturday, July 25, 2009

Journey to the roof of Africa: Summit of Kilimanjaro (Uhuru peak)

View of Kilimanjaro from flight



Though the world knows the summit of Africa as "Kilimanjaro" natives refer to the summit as "Uhuru" which means "freedom" in swahili; Aptly referred for such an enchanting journey. summit is on the outer rim of the volcanic crater. Inner crater rim is referred as "Kibo". there are three volcanic summits - Shira, Kibo and Mawenzi. Kibo which encompasses "Uhuru" is the most recent of all the volcanic eruptions.
Kibo is referred as dormant as one can still see the gases coming out from the vent.

The mountain is inhabited by "Chagga" and "Masai" tribes. All the research and erudite explorations (by westerners and others) to understand the naming of the mountain as "Kilimanjaro" went awry. And the mountain enjoys its mystery as it surprised the explorers/Thinkers being close to Equator and yet having snows & glaciers.

Hans Meyer is the first one to summit this peak in 1898.

We (I along with a friend from my IIT Kgp days) started our journey to the summit on 3rd july. After signing up in the registrar at Machame gate we hit the mountain trail (well trodden) that was wet with the drizzle taking care not to slip off the ground. Soon we were engrossed in the beautiful dense rain forest of Kilimanjaro. The giant ferns adorn the initial stage of the forest. Later the tall big trees (I don't know the names) and the bearded lichens hanging from the tree branches captivates you.









Day1: Walk through the dense rain forest which is a botanist's delight, towards the end of the trek you emerge out of the dense forest which shrinks to large shrubs and through these, in distance high in the sky appears the summit of Kilimanjaro for some briefing moments and disappears behind the clouds as though nothing existed there.

Day2: One starts experiencing the reality of the altitude as one walks through the canopy of the alpine flora above 3000m towards Shira camp. Initially it's a steep gradient until one reaches the top of the mountain and emerge out of the dense vegetation. Along the path one can spot very beautiful flowers of Kilimanajro. As we emerge out of the vegetation, there is a very beautiful view of summit of Kilimanjaro just in front of the eyes and Mt.Meru in distant above the clouds (summit protruding out of clouds). From then on it's as though you walk with the company of Mt. Meru till you reach the summit.



The climb is a bit demanding in the first half; later it's a traverse of the mountain until you reach the plains of shira camp. This place bears the arid zone of volcanic left out features. The sunset at Shira camp is one of the amazing experiences. The place looks like a make shift village with at least a hundred people. It's a bit windy at this camp.




Day3: Shira camp to Barranco: Long day; Good for acclimatization as one reaches a altitude of 4600m and descends to 3840m at the camp.



Day4: Barranco to Barafu
The days starts with a scrambling over the steep barranco wall to descend into Karanga valley and then climb again to join the route going to Barafu. Then it's a traverse and the route is not very steep to the summit camp. Usually fit and well acclimatised guys will be able to reach it about 2hrs (by 3PM)from Karanga valley camp.



You have some rest + evening snacks and be prepared mentally for the summit push at 12:00 in the mid night.

Day5: Summit Push
The journey starts in the middle of the night. Several voices can be heard across the tents; As you come out of the tent you will see some string of torches inching their way up the mountain in that vast darkness. The wind is unforgiving and doesn't miss an opportunity to strike your face with a cold blow. One has to protect his hands, feet and face with proper layering. Altitude as well plays its role. You hear your own breathing. Climb Below the stella point feels like never ending one. It's windy as you reach the stella point as it's a bit exposed. One can see the Furtwangler glacier and crater rim. Also Rebmann glacier on your left is amazing. One can get to understand how much snow has melted off from the summit of Kilimanjaro. And it may not be too far when the snows of Kilimanjaro can vanish.
From stella point the gradient eases out to a walk along the summit plane. one can enjoy the amazing sun rise from stella point. plains of Kenya can be seen in distance in the eastern direction on the left side of Mt. Mawenzi.



We reached summit just above 7AM.



After some ceremonial pictures on the summit; it's time to retreat from the summit as early as possible. The descent through loose scree is a bit fun if your in good physical shape. Takes about 1hr - 3hrs for fit guys and those who find it difficult during descent may take more time to reach Barafu (summit camp);
We took about 2hrs rest before heading for the 3000m (Mweka) camp pitched in the dense vegetation.

The last trek/walk out of the rain forest to reach Mweka Gate is very beautiful and before you complete (as it comes close to) the trek you begin miss this amazing mountain. You walk to the Park's office and sign in the register. Your summit certificate will be issued immediately. Board the cab and drive to the hotel for a good well deserved hot shower!

~ The whole journey of this Climb above the clouds - was amazing!

Thursday, July 9, 2009

Kilimanjaro summit : climb above the clouds

Reached the Uhuru (kilimanjaro) summit on 7th july along with a friend Prakash Dasot (Patel hall, IIT KGP). we summited on the full moon day and the weather all through the days of climb/trek was excellent. We had best views of sun set and sun rise at different camps. we took machame route and did in 6 days. I didn't miss the opportunity of taking pics of flowers and "colabus monkey" and blue monkey very native to kilimanjaro.

Most of the trek/climb was like "Above the sea of clouds" while Mt. Meru hung in the middle of the clouds as though watching the drama on Kilimanjaro..

Planing to explore Zanzibar Islands (Pemba, Unguja(Zanzibar) and Mafia Islands) and some safaries (Serengeti, Ngorongoro, Manyara lake etc).

thanks for your wishes.

Malli.